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The Icynene Insulation System®
Has anybody used the biobased foam? I am going to hopefully have my attic insulated (walls are ICF concrete) and am waiting for the Icynene guy to get back to me with a price, but the biobased (Soybean based spray solvent or something) just gave me a bid (~2.25 / sf). Very similar properties to icynene.
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The Icynene Insulation System®
To insulate a 2600 sf attic
I can do R42 in celluose for $1850
Biobased costs $5900
Waiting on Icynene... And crossing my fingers.
I have ICF walls, so I've already undersized my HVAC equipment. Hoping Icynene will come in a bit under, then I could spring for it.
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The Icynene Insulation System®
ICF walls are Insulated Concrete Forms - They are a concrete wall form system that you stack like legos and fill with steel and concrete. Makes for an air tight wall with insulation on the exterior and interior. Firring strips are usually tied to the concrete beneath the foam that you can attach sheetrock and siding to. I used the forms from www.nudura.com, but they are sold by 20-30 companies each with a slight change or difference.
We had 100 mile an hour winds a few days ago, and you could hardly tell.
murph
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I just (as in the past 3 days) had the biobased (soybean spray agent) version of icynene installed. I installed it in the invented roof application - i.e. the typical cathedreal attic type configuration.
I did this because, as it is now part of the 2004 IEC, it's more energy efficient than the old way, and it eliminated all the deliberate holes/penetrations for conventional venting. I installed temperature sensors under the roofing, under the attic sheathing, and inside the (now conditioned) attic space to see how the unvented roof performs. Some studies indicate that the venting of an attic only lowers the sheathing temperature about 7 degrees in extreme conditions.
Honestly, I think you'll find a pretty significant performance increase - certainly with a cathedreal ceiling application - My roofer said that the 1.5" air gap didn't really work all that well, and that it was better roof wise, if you were really concerned, to lay 2x4 stringers and put down a second layer of OSB for the "cold roof" as is done in some very cold/high snowfall applications.
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Whoops.. I was in a rush, so let me explain more. My TP membership also just expired, so I can only read a bit of the threads.
The 2x4 stringers allow an air gap so that your roof stays cold and also so that there is no condensation within the envelope. I Didn't do this, but it is common at the higher elevations here in colorado, around the ski resorts, where OSB might as well be solid gold, since money doesn't matter. 
What I did is really akin to a SIP - I framed my roof with trusses, sheathed it with 3/4" OSB, covered it with a fire deck (1/4" dens deck) and then had a fully adhred EPDM roof membrane installed. I didn't want to spend $1000 in pop up vents to vent this low pitch (1/2:12) roof, plus each of those vents would have a flashing which would eventually fail, causing a leak. (It's a flat roof, so I'm sure it will leak anyway, but you get the idea).
2004 code (actually, an approved ammendment to the 2004 code) allows a building designer/builder to spray a vapor impermable insulation to the underside of the roof decking (so that the insulation is on the top side of the attic, instead of resting on your sheetrock in the floor of the attic). This effectivly moves the condensation point to the inside surface of the insulation, which is now conditioned space, and thus won't condense. In fact, the code requires that enough insulation be applied to keep this inner surface above the condensation point for the area.
In my house, we designed it with a low pitch roof, and 18" heel in the attic trusses. We sprayed in ~10-11 inches, which gives around R40, and leaves the floor of the attic clear for me to snake a TV cable that I forgot or whatever now and then.
Hope this explains more. So far my temperature sensors show the roof sheating underside tracking the exterior temperature by about 2 degrees, while the inside temperature sits at around 60-66. We have radiant heat, so we don't heat much of the air, hence the lower ceiling/attic air temperatures.
I'll try to post more results as I get them, here and to my site.
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Here is a link to a construction website - The site is on ICF walls, which I just built my house out of, but they discuss the best way to insulate attics in these houses - These are long-time building guys who focus on energy efficiency and cost. Their recommendations are SIPS or spray in foam.
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